Across the Top of The World
Aboard Spirit of Enderby
- 15 days 25 Jul - 8 Aug 2012
- 15 days 8 - 22 Aug 2012
This is arguably one of greatest high Arctic journeys in the world. It is only made possible by the collapse of communism, the relaxing of rules and the retreat of the Arctic sea ice. We depart Nome in Alaska and cruise across the Bering Strait to Chukotka in Russia, where we will discover a land and a people that time has forgotten. Much of the region lies north of the Arctic Circle, an extremely harsh environment but the Chukchi people who are predominantly reindeer herders have adapted to this environment.
Many of the bird species that you will see are migratory species coming here to breed, taking advantage of the exceptionally abundant resources that the land and sea provide during the brief Arctic summer. On this expedition we plan to land at Cape Dezneva, the north eastern extremity of the Eurasian land mass, where there is a monument to early explorers, before cruising north across the Arctic Sea to Wrangel Island. This isolated outpost is often referred to by biologists as the 'Polar Bear Maternity Ward' on account of the large number of cubs born there each year. It is an outstanding nature reserve and our time there will be spent with Rangers and local people in addition to exploring areas known to have high numbers of birds and mammals. On our return to Chukotka, we follow the northern coastline to the east, making expedition landings at river mouths and estuaries in search of wildlife and the people that call this region home. We must clear Russian Customs at Provideniya before returning to Nome in Alaska where the cruise finishes.
Day 1
Anchorage
Fly with Bering Air from Nome, Alaska to Anadyr, Russia. During this flight you will cross the International Date Line and upon arrival you will clear Russian Customs and Immigration.
Day 2
Anadyr
All expedition members will arrive in Anadyr. If you are travelling direct to Anadyr and require pre or post cruise accommodation or excursions, please contact us. Depending on your time of arrival time you may have the opportunity to explore Anadyr before boarding the Spirit of Enderby.
Day 3
Anadyrskiy Bay
We will depart Anadyr Harbour early morning and you are invited to join the Captain, officers and the expedition staff on the bridge. The Anadyr estuary is renowned for its Beluga Whales. Today as we sail across Anadyrskiy Bay towards the Bering Strait there will be briefings, introductory lectures and a chance to relax or enjoy some “birding” with our naturalists.
Day 4
Yttygran, Nuneangan and Arakamchechen Islands
On Yttygran Island Russian anthropologists discovered an ancient aboriginal site nicknamed “Whale Bone Alley”. Whalebones stretch along the beach for nearly half a kilometre. There are many meat pits used for storage and other remains of a busy whaling camp that united several aboriginal villages at a time. In one location, immense Bowhead Whale jawbones and ribs are placed together in a stunning arch formation. Grey Whales are frequently seen around the Island. After landing at “Whale Bone Alley” we will take the Zodiacs on a whale watching excursion. We will also cruise close inshore of neighbouring Nuneangan Island (Bird Island) where a large number of seabirds nest. On nearby Arakamchechen Island there is a prominent walrus haul out; if the animals are present we will land and walk across the tundra to view them from the cliffs.
Day 5
Cape Dezhnev - Uelen Village
Sea conditions permitting, we will land at Cape Dezhnev early this morning. This is the northeastern-most point of the Eurasian continent as well as an historic landmark named after the Siberian Cossack Semyon Dezhnev, who in 1648 became the first European to sail from the Arctic to the Pacific. A steep scramble from the beach brings you to an abandoned Border Guard base, a monument to Dezhnev and another to all the sailors who have sailed these seas. Eighty-nine kms across Bering Strait is Cape Prince of Wales in Alaska. A few nautical miles to the west of Cape Dezhnev we visit Uelen Village; the most northeastern village in Russia. Archaeological work has revealed that walrus, seal and whale hunters have lived here for over 2000 years. Today the population is predominantly Chukchi, with some Russians and Inuit. Hunting is still very important but the village is also one of the largest centres for traditional Chukchi and Inuit art in the world. Sculptures from the bone-carving workshop in Uelen can be found in most of the major museums in Russia. We will be entertained by villagers and visit the bone-carving workshop during our visit.
Day 6
Kolyuchin Island
This small island was once an important Russian Polar Research Station and one of a number dotted across the Arctic. Sadly with the collapse of the USSR there was no money to maintain them and they were abandoned. The buildings are derelict but the wildlife the men studied is still there. Near the abandoned station at the north-western end of the island are some of the most amazing bird cliffs in the Arctic. Puffins, guillemots, gulls and cormorants can be observed and photographed from just meters away. At the south-eastern end of the island is a prominent walrus haul out; if the animals are present it is one of the easiest places to observe them and get some good photographs.
Day 7-11
Wrangel and Herald Islands
Ice and weather conditions permitting, we will spend these days on Wrangel Island and include a visit to nearby Herald Island. Wrangel Island is one of those Islands that you have to visit to appreciate. The earliest human occupation is dated 3,200 years BC and it has been established they were seasonal hunters from Siberia. The island’s presence was speculated about and marked on maps by early Russian explorers but it wasn’t until 1849 that it was “rediscovered” by the British. A Canadian expedition attempted to establish a settlement and claim the Island for Canada; they were evicted by the Russians who claimed the island. Today it is a Russian Federal Nature Reserve of international significance and importance. A lot of its significance lies in the fact that it is a major Polar Bear denning area; in fact it is sometimes referred to a Polar Bear maternity ward on account of the large number of pups born there. It is also the last landfall for migratory species flying north. Each summer thousands of birds migrate here to breed, including Snow Geese, Snowy Owls, skuas, Arctic Terns, Ross’s, Sabine and Ivory Gulls.
Our expedition program will be determined by the weather, sea and ice, but there are many landings that we can make to search out wildlife, wildflowers and Arctic landscapes. Polar Bears will be high on our list of animals to see and with a little patience we should be rewarded with a number of encounters. Muskoxen and reindeer were introduced to the Island in 1975 and 1948 respectively and though reindeer numbers are low, we hope to see these in various locations. We will also visit a number of historic sites like Dragi Harbour, where the Karluk’s crew over wintered in 1914 after their ship was crushed by ice. And if ice conditions permit, we will explore Herald Island to the east of Wrangel Island.
Day 12
North Siberian Coast
Although well mapped and charted, there have been very few expedition cruises and consequently there is a lot of scope for expedition landings. Depending on weather and sea conditions we will attempt an expedition landing today. There are several choices. At Cape Vankarem there is reputedly a large walrus haul out that we would like to check out. The area around the Cape is bounded by narrow sand ridges with numerous coastal lagoons and inlets; nearby there is a small Chukchi village whose residents still make their living hunting walrus, seals and whales. There is another smaller Chukchi village called Nutepelmen which is situated on a spit at the entrance to Pyngopikhin Lagoon, further west of Cape Vankarem. Depending on weather we may visit any one of these places.
Day 13
Kolyuchin Inlet
The Kolyuchin Inlet is so large that it can be seen on satellite photos from outer space. Huge numbers of waterfowl and migratory waders come here each year to breed. We concentrate our visit on the spit near the mouth of the Inlet. It is a wild, desolate landscape that is strangely beautiful. We search the dunes and tidal areas for birdlife including Emperor Geese and Spoon-billed Sandpipers. Grey Whales frequent the area and are sometimes spotted feeding only meters offshore.
Day 14
Big Diomede Island (Ostrov Ratmanova)
In 1867 when the USA purchased Alaska from Russia the new boundary was drawn between Big (Russian) and Little (USA) Diomede Islands. This makes Big Diomede Island Russia’s eastern-most possession. The island was originally inhabited by Yupik Eskimos but after World War Two the native population were relocated to the mainland. Today there are no permanent residents but the Russians maintain a Border Guard station there. It is an important island for birdlife with good numbers of Black- legged Kittiwakes, Common and Brunnich’s Guillemot and Horned and Tufted Puffin. The Island is the northern-most known colony of auklets. We visit the island, and subject to permission, will land.
Day 15
At Sea
Join the staff for an expedition recap and a disembarkation briefing, then simply relax as we sail across Anadyrskiy Bay towards Anadyr.
Day 16
Anadyr
After breakfast it will be time to say our farewells. There will be a complimentary transfer to the airport or to a hotel of your choice. Those returning to Nome will join a Charter flight that will depart Anadyr around midday and, because of the dateline, arrive back in Nome on the evening of the previous day. However, we strongly advise that you do not book any onward travel from Nome until the following day to allow for possible delays in the charter flight. Those returning to Moscow can either be transferred to the airport or hotel in Anadyr, depending on their flight times .
