Spitsbergen and Northeast Greenland
Itinerary
Day 1
Arrive in Longyearbyen, the administrative capital of the Spitsbergen archipelago of which West Spitsbergen is the largest island. Before embarking there is an opportunity to walk around this former mining community, located on the shores of scenic Isfjorden. Its church and the Polar Museum are well worth visiting, while in the surrounds of the town more than 100 species of plant have been recorded. In the early evening the ship will sail out of Isfjorden.
Day 2
Heading north from the mouth of Isfjorden, we stop on the offshore island of Ytre Norskøya to visit a 17th century Dutch whaling site, whose large graveyard is a reminder of the terrible hardships faced by whalers at that time. Their main quarry was the Greenland Whale (Am. Bowhead Whale), often also called the Right Whale because it was the right one to pursue. The whalers hunted this species to the brink of extinction and today it is a rare privilege to encounter these giants of the deep in Spitsbergen's seas. The island is a breeding place for many seabirds, including Puffins and Black Guillemots and although it is late in the season, some birds remain on their ledges, while on the tundra, Arctic Skuas are still caring for their young. Next we head for the north coast of West Spitsbergen and scenic Raudfjord, where shimmering glaciers sweep down from a mountainous backdrop. Sailing into the fjord, whose vegetation is surprisingly rich and varied, we'll be keeping an eye out for Ringed and Bearded Seals, and perhaps visit some seabird colonies. North of here lies Moffen Island, a sanctuary and popular haul out for Walrus.
Day 3
The Hinlopen Strait divides West Spitsbergen from Nordaustlandet, the second largest island in the archipelago. We plan to go ashore on both sides of the straight, near its entrance at Sorgfjorden, Langgrunodden and Laagneset, where chances of encounters with Walruses, Polar Bears, Reindeer and Ivory Gulls are particularly good. From there we sail west until we meet the East Greenland Ice, where with luck, we may run into Greenland Whales.
Days 4-5
At sea, on our way to Greenland, we sail along the rim of the impressive East Greenland Ice. On deck, we should keep a lookout for the tell-tale blow of Fin Whales, Humpback Whales and Minke Whales, which may herald rewarding encounters and also for migrating seabirds, especially the Brúnnich's Guillemots, which swim with their young from Spitsbergen, along the sea ice to South Greenland.
Day 6
Approaching Greenland we will attempt to sail through the sea ice into Foster Bugt, making our first landing at Myggebugten. In the first half of the 20th century, Norwegian trappers hunted here for Polar Bears and Arctic Foxes. Beyond the old hunters’ hut lies an extensive area of tundra, grazed by Musk Oxen and Arctic Hares and also the territory of a small population of shy White Wolves. The tundra is peppered with small lakes which are home to geese during the breeding season.
Day 7
Today we sail into Kaiser Franz Joseph Fjord, a magnificent fjord with towering mountains on both sides, its inner reaches choked with huge icebergs. As we come in to land near Blomsterbugt, if you can tear your eyes away from the scenery, you may be lucky and spot Narwhal. The distinctive tusk of the male is actually a modified tooth, and is a helpful clue to identification of the species. We go ashore to view some unusual geological formations and perhaps Arctic Hares, which are often observed in the vicinity.
Day 8
On Traillø, or near Antarcticahavn, we plan an extended hike on the tundra, whose sparse vegetation will be tinged with autumn hues at this time of year, making it an especially scenic backdrop to the herds of Musk Oxen we hope to encounter and photograph.
Day 9
Today we reach Scoresby Sund, the world's longest fjord, probably making our first landing at Kap Brewster, near its mouth, which because it remains ice-free almost all winter, is an excellent place for viewing seals. The area is also home to the only large seabird colonies on the east coast of Greenland. We offer an optional and fairly strenuous hike and climb across the valley to the plateau of Kap Brewster, from where breathtaking views unfold over the fjord, Liverpool Land and the sea. On the way we may spot a variety of land birds, among them the majestic Gyr Falcon, Wheatears and tuneful Snow Buntings. In the evening we sail further into Scoresby Sund, along the rugged and glaciated Volquart Boons Coast, a good place for seeing Narwhal.
Day 10
We continue along Scoresby Sund, taking the Zodiacs for a spectacular cruise along the glacier front in Vikingebugt, a bay surrounded by striking basalt mountains. Later, we land on Danmarks where there are the remains of an Inuit settlement and burial ground, abandoned around 200 years ago. The circular ‘tent rings’ of stones indicate the summer houses, while the winter dwellings can be seen closer to a small cape. The sites are in excellent condition, allowing entrances and even bear-proof meat caches to be identified.
Day 11
We go ashore at Cape Hofmann Halvø, a reliable spot for viewing Musk Oxen. Here we may also spot Rock Ptarmigan, while Great Northern Divers, with their stunning plumage and unmistakeable profile, can be observed cruising offshore. The landscape here is particularly beautiful, especially during autumn when Dwarf Willow and Dwarf Birch turn to a blaze of colour. Arctic Bilberry and Crowberry add their own colourful touch - and the berries are tasty too! Later, we cruise by Zodiac among huge icebergs calved from the 3km wide front of the Eielson Glacier, where Ringed Seals often congregate. In the evening we sail through the fjord towards Scoresby Land, hoping to see Narwhal again and enjoying the contrast between the cold blue of the icebergs, the warm autumnal colours of the tundra, and the imposing backdrop of dark mountains.
Day 12
On our way to Sydkap in Scoresby Land, we encounter colossal icebergs, some over 100m high and more than a kilometre in length. As the fjord is only about 400m deep here, most of the bergs are grounded and will take many years to melt down. We land near Sydkap to view the remains of some Thule culture winter dwellings. As many as 20 people lived in these tiny houses, hunting Greenland Whales and using their vertebrae to support the roof. We may also land at Gurreholm on Jameson Land, a gently undulating landscape, but with a harsh climate. Though snow sometimes lies throughout the summer, Musk Oxen manage to survive on the meagre vegetation, along with Collared Lemmings, who attract predatory Long-tailed Skua, Snowy Owl and Arctic Fox to the area.
Day 13
We land in Illoqqortoormiut, the principal settlement in the Scoresby Sund region, with about 500 inhabitants. At the post office you can buy stamps for your postcards, or just wander around to see the sledge dogs tethered outside the brightly painted wooden homes, waiting patiently for the first snows of winter so they are in their element again. Hung out to dry are the skins of Seal, Musk Ox and Polar Bear, which betray the hunting livelihood of many of the local people in this far-flung place. After lunch we set sail south to Iceland, passing the amazing landscape of the Blosseville Coast.
Day 14
We spend the whole day at sea and in the nutrient-rich waters where the cold East Greenland Current mixes with the warmer Gulf Stream, we may encounter migrating seabirds and Humpback, Blue, Fin or Sei whales, who gather here to feed. At night, a clear sky may brings fantastic displays of the Aurora Borealis (Northern Lights), if we are very lucky.
Day 15
Arrive in Keflavik and transfer for the flight home.
Alternative Itinerary
when ice conditions are heavy (about 30% chance each year)
Days 6-7
We continue to sail south along the rim of the East Greenland Ice, until we find suitable access to the coast of East Greenland. As we make our way along the ice, we may run into seals, Polar Bears, Ivory Gulls, and large whales.
Day 8
At the mouth of Nansen Fjord we are in view of Gunnbjørns Fjeld, at 3,700m both the highest peak in Greenland and the highest mountain north of the Arctic Circle. Next we sail into Mikis Fjord, bounded by steep cliffs and a place where we sometimes spot Narwhal, Polar Bear, Ringed seals and Harp Seals. In the afternoon, we land at the head of the fjord at Sødalen, whose fertile marshes attract migrating flocks of Barnacle and Pink-footed Geese. This is a rewarding area for walking and birdwatching, both near the mouth of the river and further up the valley, where both Common and Arctic Redpolls can be observed.
Day 9
In the morning we sail into Kangerlussuaq fjord, where glaciers meet the sea, creating a fabulous landscape of glacier fronts, icebergs and cliffs. In this beautiful but harsh setting, we come across the remains of dwellings of Thule culture people. Polar Bears are sometimes spotted patrolling the shore, top predators who are as at home in the sea as they are on land, while Ivory Gulls, a true bird of the Arctic, can be observed in flight over the fjord. After several landings we sail out of the fjord in the evening.
Day 10
Today we explore the Tassilaq and Kangertigtivatsiaq fjords, both hemmed in by towering mountains. Sangmilik is one of the few landing sites in these fjords and once ashore there is a chance to pick delicious Arctic Bilberries and Crowberries. We then take a Zodiac trip along the impressive front of the Glacier de France in Schweizerland, an area packed with giant icebergs and frequented by hunters from the Ammassalik area.
Day 11
Ammassalik is the largest town in East Greenland and the centre for several small outlying hunting and fishing settlements. The population of about 3,000 live by hunting Walrus, Narwhal and Polar Bear, and fishing for Arctic Char. We will spend the whole day in and near this friendly town which offers an excellent opportunity to experience modern Greenlandic culture.
Day 12
In Køge Bugt (Ikeq) the vast inland icecap reaches the sea and can be easily and safely accessed on foot. Those who have visited Antarctica will note the similarities of the landscape, with giant tabular icebergs calving from vast glacier fronts. We intend to land at Husryggen, an abandoned settlement from the sixties. Nearby at Umivik we look for the place where Nansen went ashore and started his epic traverse of the Greenland Icecap.
Days 13-14
We return across the Denmark Strait, again keeping a sharp lookout for whales, who gather to feed in the nutrient-rich waters west of Iceland. At this time of year, a clear night sky may bring the awesome spectacle of the Aurora Borealis (the Northern Lights).
